Having experimented with fashion althroughout high school, I now know the importance of looking for all 1. functionality 2. comfort 3. fit 4. design all in one.
I am not a professional in anyway, but I hope I can shed some light on getting quality clothes in your closet. To preface 101, I recognize that we have a huge fast fashion problem in this world, so unlike other 101s, I wil be starting off with recognizing quality first. Remember that all of this advice is my opinion after all, and will not be neutral or professional. I have biases towards natural materials and against synthetics, for example.
Material, quality, and uses
Just like there is good quality cotton, there is bad quality cotton. A fabric being synthetic doesn't necessarily mean it is lower quality. I have 95% cotton and wool socks that fall apart on the insides, and 95% polyester socks that get very thin after a few wears. There is absolutely shit, thin, wrinkle-prone, shiny polyester just like there is absolutely shit, thin, weak cotton. Each material has their own strengths, weaknesses, and unique qualities that make them fit for your needs and preferences.
lets start of with common fiber types:
Naturals:
Natural fabrics are materials that are organic and straight from our earth. Naturals are biodegradable but will likely last your entire life time or multiple generations if taken care of correctly. Each natural fabric has its own uses for each situation and climate. Some are more abundant than others. There are many examples not listed here, such as hemp, for simplicity and the fact that it is less common.
Cotton
Cotton is best for warm weather and cool weather as it is breathable and light-weight, aswell as being sturdy and warm enough for autumn. Cotton does not wick away moisture very well, so it is not a reccommended fabric for winter or extremely cold weather.
Wool
Wool wicks away sweat and simultaneously keeps you warm. Wool will retain its warmth even when wet. So its perfect for extreme colds. Wool is also self cleaning, and doesn't need to be washed every wear. In some cases, it can even be waterproof. This is because of the natural lanolin in wool- which gives it that oily texture and petting zoo smell, haha. If a wool garment ever needs to be washed, you can leave it outside to ait it out. Wool has a reputation for shrinking significantly in the dryer and/or the washer, if you ever use hot water! Wool can either be incredibly soft, like merino. But most wools are not soft and can feel itchy.
Other furs
Furs are super soft fabrics that come from animals! Real fur is a great insulator and can be very soft to the touch or coarse, depending on the animal. Obviously it is a great fabric for winter, and something I would never touch in warm weather. Not all fur is equal. Personally, I would never buy real fur new, if I didn't research the source, first. Someone can correct me if I'm wrong, but a more ethical source of fur would be from indigineous tribes who do still use the whole animal, and sell their left-over furs. If you are that adamant on sewing with furs, I would look there! Maybe the only cons I have for real fur is how the industry works, and the fact that animals can become wary of you hahaha. My cat doesn't even like faux fur, though.
Silk
Silk can come from a variety of sources, but generally, silk is a luxurious and lightweight fabric that is naturally strong. Silk tends to not wrinkle, and its a very beautiful fabric that naturally drapes with a beautiful sheen. However, silk tends to stay vibrant if taken care of, and is not colourfast. Many older silk garments are STILL very, very vibrant and beautiful. Alot of these fabrics will demand dry cleaning though because of the acid-based dyes. Also, sometimes water can even damage some silks, so its best to dry clean if your silk demands it. Its an anti-pilling fabric and pierce resistant. Cheaper grades (lower thread count weave) of silk tend to not have those two qualities, though. It was so pierce resistant that it was used by the Mongolian army. Silk feels amazing against skin and is also UV Protective! Silk wicks away sweat, yet it can also be a great insulator with cold weather.
Leather
Leather can be a thick or thin fabric- but still tough- that is made from animal skin. Leather is very sturdy and has a very long lifespan. Leather softens with use. This is a material that requires delicate care, it is still skin, so it can require moisture and/or brushing, depending on the type of leather it is. Some leathers WIlL GET DAMAGED by certain oils. Research your leather type!!
Semi synthetics:
Semi synthetics are usually made with some kind of cellulose, which is derived from natural sources such as wood, or cotton. It is treated with a heavy chemical process to become a fabric. These fabrics are pretty controversial due to how workers at these factories get fatal illnesses, as well as the productions impact on the environment. All semi-synthetics are biodegradable. See if semi-synthetics are right for you.
Viscose/Rayon
Viscose is a semi synthetic that is often used as a silk or acrylic/wool replacement. It can feel soft, lightweight, and luxurious. It's primarily made of wood. This fabric doesn't do well in water at all. It can leave water spots if left on for too long, become extremely weak if submerged for too long. And especially NOT in hot water. All in all, it should not be left in water for more than 30 minutes. Viscose shouldn't be wrung out, or crumpled. It also takes forever to dry... much much longer than cotton or other natural fibres. It is prone to shrinking, but it is not colourfast alike to other natural fibres. Because of the shrinkage, it should be laid out to dry. To clean, it should be dry cleaned or sprayed with vodka for best results. While it can be lightweight, breathable, and nice for summer, it isn't good for much else. Do not take your viscose garment to a waterpark in summer! Tencel, Lyocell, and Ecovero are different types of Viscose/Rayon that recycle their water and chemicals to reduce waste. Viscose is known to pill easily and become rougher over time.
Modal
Modal is primarily made of wood- alike to viscose/rayon. Modal is specifically made from beech trees, which gives it some different properties than viscose! Modal can be very soft, and unlike viscose, it gets stronger in water. Modal also seems to be one of the more durable semi-synthetics, outlasting viscose garments in terms of wear. Unlike its cousin viscose, it can retain colour better aswell. Modal is very breathable and a great material for hot weather. It is odour resistant (but not as well as wool) and breathable. Alike to viscose though, its quite slow to dry. Luckily, it is stronger in water, and won't shrink in the dryer, making the washing and drying process much better. It is moisture wicking, but that can be a con because of how slow it is to dry. Modal has some natural stretch to it, more than cotton atleast, and its also resistant to pilling. It also tends not to wrinkle as easily.
Cupro
Cupro is another semi-synthetic which is made from cotton waste. It also goes by the names cupra, cuprammonium rayon, or ammonia silk. Cupro acts alike to silk, with it sheen and drape. Cupro isn't as breathable as cotton, and also will burst into flames if exposed to temperatures above 180 degrees fahrenheit. Because of the manufacturing process, it leave copper residue. Fire aside, if exposed to hot water in the washer, it can shrink. It is also anti-bacterial and moisture wicking! Cupro is a durable fabric- much more durable than silk- but still weaker than modal.
Synthetics
Synthetic fabrics are entirely man-made fabrics, usually made of petroleum products. They are the cheapest to produce and they are entirely synthetic. Many of these fabrics may be labelled as polyester and polyester only, and since they share many of the same properties as this, most of the information on synthetics will be under polyester. Synthetics are NOT biodegradable, or take a very, very, very long time, more than multiple generations of your family, to break down or even begin to break down.
Polyester
Polyester is a jack of all trades, that can be used in a variety of ways. It is often used to imitate natural fibers and lower the cost of an item by being used as a filler. Polyester can be lightweight, but also can trap heat. For this, it can be utilized best in very cold weather, though it can be woven thin for summer to create a silk-like fabric. Alike to cotton, polyester doesn't wick away sweat very well and can even trap odours and bacteria. Polyester can be less wrinkle-prone than natural fibres, and may not require ironing at all. Polyester can be a very durable fabric that can be thrown into the washer and dryer without shrinking or any other damage. They can also be safe from moths and other cloth eating bugs. Polyester is usually not colour-fast, and these fabrics will not fade as much as they do in natural fibres. It usually doesn't require dry cleaning. Polyester dries very fast.
Elastane/Spandex/Lycra
This is a fibre that I would only wear as a filler. 5-10% of elastane helps alot for stretch. It is usually used for active wear, it is honestly not a very nice feeling fabric, besides being stretchy.
Nylon
Nylon is a strong fabric that is usually spun thin to be used in hosiery. Nylon can be rip-stop, but you often wont find that military-grade ultra strong nylon in fashion unless you are buying surplus or something specifically made to be ultra strong. Nylon is surprisingly breathable for a synthetic, doesn't shrink, and dries quickly. It can also be very staticky, attract lint, dust, and hair. Unfortunately low grade nylon can pill very easily.
Acrylic
Acrylic is a replacement for wool and fur. It is soft, inexpensive, and warm. It is perfect for cold weather without breaking the bank. Acrylic can pill easily, but is also very, VERY flammable and will melt. Poor grade acrylic will shed, which is awful for the environment, if that isn't bad enough.
Pleather and other coated plastics
This is the one fabric I will flat out avoid and discourage. Yes, pleather is affordable. Yes, pleather is soft, Yes, pleather is vibrant. Its easy to sew. Pleather will begin to degrade, warp, and flake off when it has met too much heat, too much moisture, too much wear, and too much pressure. It has a short lifespan and is only made to look good and be "vegan alternatives." Yes, it is vegan, but in turn, we are poisoning the earth with even more plastic flakes that have a very, very short lifespan and that exist purely for aesthetic uses. I do NOT reccommend this fabric ever. This is coming from someone who has suddenly found pleather flakes in their mouth.
PVC
PVC is most often used as a sew-able and cheaper latex alternative, or used as a clear fabric for bags or jackets. BE CAREFUL WIth PVC! PVC can often be so hard that it can cut your skin. If left in the sun or heat, PVC can warp and/or melt. PVC is prone to cracking when it meets too much moisture, heat, or age, alike to pleather. It comes in a variety of interesting finishes, but keep these in mind!
Fabric weaves
Seersucker
Seersucker is a weave that is ultra-thin and great for summer. Its texture allows for air to flow throw the fabric. It's perfect for travel as it doesn't wrinkle easily.
Jersey Knit
Probably the most populous fabric in anyones closet. This is average T-shirt and underwear fabric. Jersey knit stretches 4-ways and can be spun heavy or thin. This kind of fabric can stretch without spandex or any other kind of synthetic stretch material.
Plain Woven
This kind of fabric weave has no give at all. It is not stretchy, and will require buttons, elastic, or zippers to put on.
Satin
Satin is a shiny and thin weave that has a slippery texture. It is popularized by silk satin, but of course, polyester can be satin aswell. It tends to be a weak/delicate fabric that can snag.
Velvet
Velvet is a flocky weave that is soft and luxurious. It is also a delicate fabric that can lose its fibres over time.
Chiffon
Chiffon is a lightweight, often sheer fabric that allows wind to pass through. It can be soft and great for summer. It often has a sheen to it, alike to satin.
Twill
Twill is a thicker weave that is usually used for pants, jackets, and jeans. It is a very tough fabric that can withstand alot of wear and tear. It has been used for workwear and military uniforms, as well as casual wear. Denim is a type of twill, is quite literally timeless and very versatile in style and usage.
Specialties that don't fit in the above categories
Waxed Denim
Waxed denim is a tough fabric that is used for its (now) looks and toughness. It is now, more oftenly used as an alternative to leather, PVC, or latex. Waxed denim must be upkept and re-waxed, or spot cleaned. Waxed denim cannot be washed often at all, which is unfortunate, because it is prone to MOLD! It is usually waxed with a synthetic wax.
On blended fabrics
Fabrics can be blended out of necessity, purpose, or simply marking the price down. For example, sometimes synthetics are needed to blend with socks or especially stockings, not for comfort, but to have something thing that *holds structure.* Silk is a delicate fabric that can be worn out easily, but if mixed with nylon, it can stay strong and hold its shape. Socks can keep their stucture and longevity by also having synthetics. Coats and jackets can become water resistant by adding synthetics. But, mass produced clothes can be majority synthetics with the smallest amount of desirable fibre possible to be labelled as a "cashmere wool" sweater or "silk". Always check the garment tag or the materials on the listing.
Your preferences
Personally, I tend to not wear synthetics as they can get warm and hold odours and bacteria. I will accept blends in certain spots, and try to never wear synthetics touching my skin unless I really love it. Your own preferences will come down to whether or not your climate and morals allow for certain fabrics. You could care purely for aesthetics and love polyester. You could love the comfort of spandex. You could need wool or acrylic to stay warm, or simply not like how rough cotton is or how itchy wool is. I also know so many people who don't like the heavy chemical processes of semi-synthetics. It all comes down to your tastes. Take note of the pros and cons in each fabric and see how much they mean to you.
Be aware of greenwashing
Many garments that say that they include a majority of recycled material, they often mean polyester. Its fucking polyester. They want you to think that you are being conscious to the environment when its really just fucking polyester. Remember that whenever you wash something, you are releasing a little bit of it into the water that you used to wash it. That can be wool, cotton, polyester. Polyester is a synthetic, aka a plastic.
Quality
It doesn't apply to every garment, but stitching should be relatively even. There should be no loose or uncut, long threads. If your garment is brand new, it should not be coming undone already. It should feel sturdy and not flimsy. Flip the garment inside out. Every good garment should have a lining fabric, aswell as looking relatively neat. Does this garment *feel* good to touch? If it doesn't feel good to touch, then you shouldn't wear it. This is going to be something that you're going to put on your body, after all. The garment should not be see-through, unless that is a quality you are looking for. Furs should not be falling apart at the touch or shedding profusely.
Identifying fabrics
You may be able to identify fabrics from eyesight alone, but fire will help determine or atleast narrow down which kind of fabric it is. Cotton will burn evenly and smell like burnt paper afterwards. Wool will light on fire all at once and smell like burnt hair. Synthetics will melt into a black ball in one place and smell like burnt plastic. For touch, silk will glide through your fingers and not "catch" and get stuck. Real pearl buttons will feel cold to the touch while plastic buttons will feel room temperature.
Staple Pieces
First off, fashion aside, you need clothes that work for everyday and fashion. But remember that you should ultimately tailor this to your style, your needs, and your climate. Having something won't be worth it if you don't wear it. You should have these in neutral colours to be versatile:
- Everyday shoes- usually sneakers
- An everyday jacket
- Tailored- usually not really tailored, but flattering- pants
- White button up shirt
- Everyday T-shirts
- Everyday pants
- Sunglasses
- Light jacket
- A weather appropriate coat that works with everything
- Cardigans
- Jewelry in your preferred colourway
- Weather appropriate hats, snapback or knitted
- Boots
- Thermal long sleeve shirts- if your weather allows for it
- Trench coat
- Blazer
- A scarf
- Shorts
Add-ons for a feminine wardrobe:
- A pair of black or brown heels that goes with everything
- A neutral skirt
- Purse that goes with everything
- Leggings/stockings/tights to go with everything
- A dress you like
Ethical, slow fashion
Check the brand you are buying from. Do NOT buy anything from Amazon, Shein, Romwe, Forever 21, or H&M. Research these brands morals, and more so, their REAL actions that are not documented by them, or a partner of them. You can find very easily that H&M has noted to not recycle a majority of the clothes that are brought in for store credit. Fast fashion is extremely harmful in many, many ways. Child labour, forced labour, abusive and unfair labour aside, many of these people do not get paid or get paid very little for the amount of work they are doing. Someone suffering is not worth the shitty "cute" clothes that will fall apart after 3 wears. Test and reports have shown that fast fashion companies can send harmful things in their packages, like unsanitary worn clothes, and biohazards. That aside, the materials can be literally poisonous, having much higher lead amounts than what is "acceptable."
Wear and wash your fracking clothes
If you aren't sure, you can put something in a delicates bag. I do not like to use that ultra strong stain removing detergent as it can damage some delicate clothing. I use natural sheet detergent, or anything gentle. I wash everything on any of the cold cycles, any of these settings: gentle, cold, hand-wash, and rinse twice to get anything gross out. My exception for washing ***WARM*** is when there is anything heavy like blood stains on my clothes. DO NOT PUT ANYTHING SOAKED IN OIL IN THE WASHER. IT WILL CATCH ON FIRE OR EXPLODE. I dry everything on ultra low, or I lay everything to dry flat, or hanging. Some clothes do not need to be washed after every wear unless they are physically dirty or have an odour. Jeans, bras, and outerwear usually follow this rule for me, and should be washed on every second or third wear. However, underwear, socks, and tights, should be washed after EVERY WEAR.
Ironing and steaming
You do not want to leave the house looking messy. Not ironing your clothes is like styling your unbrushed hair or not washing your face before putting makeup on. If you hate ironing, like me, I like to use a steamer. But there are certain things that only an iron will work for, like pleats. I have used a flat hair iron in a pinch (make sure there is no product on it as it can stain, set stains, and MAKE SURE ITS NOT TOO HOT or it may burn your fabric. That goes for clothes ironing too.), or even sprayed something with water and used a hairdryer. If you REALLY hate ironing, I like to lay my garments flat, and simply smooth the wrinkles out with my hands. It gives those very soft wrinkles that come with everyday wear.
Fit
A good fit makes everyone look good, and is comfortable to wear. A bad, too tight fit will be uncomfortable and be an amazing way to make your clothes fall apart at the seams. A too loose fit can be unflattering or look sloppy, if the garment is supposed to follow your bodyline and not flow. Its important to take in your measurements and give yourself a couple inches to breathe. If you prefer a different fit than entirely to your measurements, it is entirely up to you! I like to carry measuring tape with me, and also write my measurements down, translated to both inches and centimeters.
Functionality
Can you properly move, put your arms behind your back and over your head, stretch, and walk in a piece? If it feels too restricting, that is a main deciding factor against getting a piece. Remember, a bigger piece can be made smaller easily. A smaller piece can't be made bigger as easily. Make sure this garment doesn't restrict your movement too much. Personally, to make my clothes much more utilitarian, I like to sew huge pockets into my skirts.
Damage and repairs
Does this garment feel brittle in any way? Is it literally crumbling apart? This may be a sign of dry rot. Weirdly, the mixture of your sweat and deodorant can also temporarily dye/stain your clothing.. luckily this almost always washes out if it is not set in place by heat or time. Cigarette burns and moth holes will either have to be re-woven, re-knitted, patched over, or covered up. Many fabrics broken fibres can show up as pilling. These can be clipped off or buzzed off to lessen the damage and save the appearance. Tears, undone seams and thread, can always be fixed!
Basic Sewing, mending, repairs
If you love your wardrobe, repairs are necessary! Repairing your wardrobe will cost alot less than buying an entirely new garment. If you can't sew, I think that having a good relationship with a tailor or a dry cleaner is essential. Many small holes in knit garments can be fixed either by sewing a small 'star' to close the hole, or even knitting or crocheting. Patches can be utilized too. Undone threads can be done with a simple straight stitch. You can use dental floss if you really want to make sure something stays on, or learn some strong knots like a surgeons knot.